This collection marked something of a change for Elie Saab:
To put it plainly, he seemed to be courting the youth market, not only
by introducing shorter skirt lengths and freer silhouettes, but also by
giving a bit more edge to his looks. The most surprising pieces here
were abbreviated silk/cotton dresses with a spiderweb of suggestive
cutouts—a step out for Saab. Elsewhere, he pulled the cutout theme back
into his signature aesthetic by applying it to slinky gowns in black
lace or tomato-red silk. The cutouts were only one example of the
emphasis on the graphic—some of Saab's punchiest looks were in stark
black and white, like the asymmetric white minidress with its slash of
black. The flip side to the graphic were the many sculptural flourishes,
in particular the capes and bell-shaped sleeves. This motif was more
predictable from Saab, and predictably, he executed it well. The
standout here was a white bootleg jumpsuit with a floor-length cape—a
garment that captured some of the collection's youthful joie de vivre
without stooping to look anything other than entirely grown-up.
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