The United Arab Emirates’ Most Luxurious New Hotel Isn’t in
Dubai or Abu Dhabi—It’s in Sharjah
Think of United Arab Emirates and you probably think of
Dubai: gleaming towers, palm-shaped islands, air-conditioned mega-malls—Vegas
on the Gulf. And yet Sharjah, Dubai’s northern neighbor, just 10 miles from the
airport calls to mind….
We’ll forgive you for being unfamiliar with the lesser-known emirate—it’s more conservative (no cocktail bars here) and sleepier after all, and though the art world knows it for its Biennial, it’s never had a nice place to stay the night. Until now. With the opening of Al Bait Sharjah, a Leading Hotels of the World property and the emirate’s first luxury resort, Sharjah now offers a delightful rejoinder to Dubai’s glass and glitz.
We’ll forgive you for being unfamiliar with the lesser-known emirate—it’s more conservative (no cocktail bars here) and sleepier after all, and though the art world knows it for its Biennial, it’s never had a nice place to stay the night. Until now. With the opening of Al Bait Sharjah, a Leading Hotels of the World property and the emirate’s first luxury resort, Sharjah now offers a delightful rejoinder to Dubai’s glass and glitz.
Managed by GHM, which operates a sister hotel, the Chedi
Muscat, in Oman, Al Bait sits along a waterfront canal in the heart of old
Sharjah, a neighborhood of whitewashed, early 19th-century buildings hewed from
coral bricks that have been faithfully restored. Steps from the hotel’s
entrance, an ancient souk where Bedouins once gathered on camelbacks today
houses textile shops and tailors, modern boutiques and perfumeries inside
vaulted storefronts. Emirati men wearing flowing white dishdasha sip coffee and
play cards in the social club next door, as the muezzin’s evocative prayer call
pierces the desert air from an adjacent mosque.
Centrally situated within this walkable heritage district,
Al Bait feels like its own walled village. A warren of narrow alleyways,
lantern-lit at night, connect to secluded courtyards that house a hammam and
spa, two restaurants and a cafe, as well as a library, museum and ice cream
shop. (Try the homemade camel-milk ice cream with pistachios and rose petals.)
I can guarantee that at least once you will get lost—happily—as you try to
navigate the property. The hotel’s 53
rooms and suites include several built upon the original foundations of old
houses that once belonged to Sharjah’s most prestigious families. These take
after their traditional design, with Arabic-style floor sofas, woven palm-frond
ceilings, hand-carved wood furniture and decorative brass flourishes. The rooms
are homey, romantic, tasteful—heritage luxury if you will. As part of the suite
package, you might return from the hotel’s fine Arabic restaurant one balmy
evening to wisps of frankincense smoke and a bubble bath topped with rose petals—the
ultimate sheikha treatment.
Dubai’s attractions are easily reachable with Al Bait’s
fleet of chauffeured Mercedes. But Sharjah—once named the “Cultural Capital of
the Arab World” by UNESCO—offers plenty diversions of its own. The emirate is
an emergent art-world destination, thanks to the Sharjah Art Foundation, based
a short walk from Al Bait in the old district, which hosts the Biennial. In
between expositions, the foundation organizes regular exhibitions, workshops
and free film screenings. The nearby Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilization
contains more than 5,000 artifacts—the city has 19 museums in all—and the
annual international book fair, the world’s third largest, earned Sharjah the
title of this year’s “World Book Capital” from UNESCO. Farther afield, towards
the hazy Al Hajar mountains, lie interesting archaeological ruins and desert
safaris.
Once you do make it to Dubai, inevitably, you might well
find that returning back to Al Bait’s romantic courtyards—walls inside walls
inside walls—will make you feel as though you’re in on a certain secret.
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