A SLICE OF MAGIC
Borgo Santo Pietro is a wonderful example of a dream come
true. The enigmatic Danish owners, Claus and Jeanette Thottrup, have not only realized
their dream, but they have also allowed us to share it. They are passionate
Italophiles with a penchant for the relaxed vibe of Southern Europe. This eclectic
gathering of interests has allowed them to create an exclusive Tuscan retreat
that offers the covetable trappings of a pristine palazzo, immaculately
decorated down to the finest detail, though the atmosphere that flows
throughout is wonderfully relaxed and unpretentious.
Borgo Santo Pietro dates back to the 13th century; however,
after hundreds of years of life, it lay derelict by 2001. I believe it took one
visit by the Thottrups to realize that this would make an outstanding
residence. After several months and years of needle-fine restoration, trawling
antique markets, planting thousands of trees and plant varieties, reproducing
the original where the real thing could not be found; they have created
something very special indeed.
There is that 'no expenses spared' feeling with the quality
being sumptuously superior: Venice's finest Fortuny fabrics on cushions and
bedspreads, luxuriant Rubelli velvets, Danish antiques passed down through
their own families, French wall hangings, 19th-century oil paintings besides
convincing Italian reproductions. The luxury list is endless. However, the overall effect is a truly tasteful take on an opulent aristocratic abode, but
with an atmosphere perfectly suited to sandals and kaftans.
We stayed here in late September, just as the days were
shortening and Tuscany were taking on a hint of color-change. With October
looming, the large open fireplace on the shabby-chic terrace, decked out with
oversized weathered cane armchairs were crackling out a romantic glow and
warmth – a perfect place to enjoy after a stroll around the exquisite
zen-inspired gardens.
GLORIOUS GROUNDS
They are extremely proud of their gardens here, and with
good reason. When they first acquired the property the land was barren and
unkempt and after seeking the expertise of an award-winning landscape designer
they have gardens flourishing with fruit trees, roses, privet hedges, lavender,
citrus, pine, and tropical specimens, with many streamlined and gurgling water
features. The grounds are glorious and intimate, allowing guests to indulge
their senses from scent to sight and, in many cases, in romantic seclusion.
RUSTIC R&R
The infinity pool is designed to blend in seamlessly with
its surroundings. This pool not only looks sensual and organic but, being
sourced by natural spring water, a swim feels blissfully authentic. Cocktails
can be enjoyed at a bar set within the pool's cooling water – not particularly
Tuscan, but it's these little details that make this place so alluring. A short
pitter-patter from the pool nestles a rustic bar room – a little Ibiza or St
Tropez-esque, in an outdoor room that feels like an African look-out hide,
complete with aged leather sofas, a large flat screen, low tables sprawled with
backgammon sets, comfy armchairs, and mini-me rattan furniture for young ones.
However, what makes this place so special for me is that
every room, grande or petite, is absolutely gorgeous. No two rooms are the
same, as indeed would be the case in your own home, though each room or suite
has an extraordinary level of luxury, all decorated with real flair. The
en-suite bathrooms are opulent and richly supplied with amenities, though some
suites, like ours, have a scroll-top ball-and-claw bath in the main bedroom.
The standard in-room or suite facilities are quite exceptional, which means that no matter which room you have, you will be more than satisfied. However, I had to nip suite-envy in the bud after a peek at the Grand Suite, which my friends had stayed in a few weeks before. It luxuriates in splendid grandeur over an entire floor of the south wing with a terrace offering views of the valley and mountains beyond.
BED HEAVEN
Our ground level suite, the only one in the hotel, was inspired by its namesake Rinaldo Peivano di Sorciano, who was famed for selling the property's church, St Pietro e Cellole, to the Abbey Sar Galgano. This all took place in 1252 but the eminence of such an occasion created a landmark suite that is truly outstanding. Take this one if you can because it has everything romantic, alluring, luxurious, grand, and state-of-the-art that you could possibly yearn for.
In the morning and evening, we had our black antique fireplace lit by the butler. We not only slept to the primal sound of the comforting fire, but we also relaxed nearby in our gilded claw-and-ball bath. It's pure luxury in here, oozing with a richness that feels authentic while at the same time the 21st century is tucked in with refined subtlety, down to dim the light from the crystal chandelier overhead. The staggering gilt Rococco styled bed felt large enough for an entire royal family with butter-soft bedding and dreamy down pillows.
Being on the ground floor worked well with our little one, who had a wooden crib at the foot of bed heaven. Breakfast was laid out for us in-suite, on the circular fruitwood table. We sat on our Regency chairs covered in a fine needlework fabric while the sun streamed in through the French windows, lighting up the stained oak floor beneath our embroidered slippers.
THE SEASON'S FINEST
You can choose your venue in and around the property for fine dining, as well as lighter menus. The main Meo Modo restaurant is now Michelin starred and features chef Andrea Mattei's mouthwatering farm-to-table approach, benefitting from the estate's organic produce. The dining room is relaxed with a grandiose touch while the food is excellent, focusing on seasonal dishes prepared with herbs and vegetables from their organic garden. We had the best end of lamb with crisp polenta accompanied by a rare, mature 1998 red pinot noir from the Veneto region chosen for us by the charming sommelier.
The Trattoria Sull'Albero has a more relaxed vibe with local Tuscan dishes, a wood-burning oven with pizzas, pasta, and grills all enjoyed in a rustic setting overlooking the valley.
Borgo Santo Pietro is not just a luxury retreat, or villa,
or five-star hotel. It is far more; an experience within an experience of
Tuscany. It is truly a slice of Tuscan magic.
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