Introduced at a time when restaurant cars were still a
novelty, the Orient Express – or King of Trains – impressed travellers and
became known as the Train of Kings.
Brainchild of Belgian businessman Georges Nagelmackers, the
Orient Express first ran from Paris to Constantinople (Istanbul) in October
1883. Sleeping and restaurant cars were still a novelty in Europe and the
luxurious upholstery and decor delighted travellers.
The Orient Express soon became known as the King of Trains
and Train of Kings. Leopold II of Belgium and Carol II of Romania were famed as
on-board seducers.
Tsar Nicholas II demanded custom-built carriages, while
Ferdinand I of Bulgaria even insisted on driving the train through his own
kingdom at breakneck speed.
Other famous passengers included Tolstoy, Trotsky,
Diaghilev, Marlene Dietrich, Lawrence of Arabia and the spy Mata Hari – as well
as fictional characters such as Hercule Poirot and James Bond.
The train was nicknamed the Spies’ Express, so popular was
it with secret agents. One was Boy Scouts founder Robert Baden-Powell, who
disguised his clandestine sketches of Dalmatian coastal fortifications as
drawings of butterfly wings.
One night in 1920, a pyjama-clad man stumbled up to a signal
box claiming to be French president Paul Deschanel; he had accidentally fallen
from the train. “And I’m Napoleon Bonaparte,” scoffed the signalman. But the
man really was the president, a job then so obscure that his own citizens
didn’t recognise him.
Early journeys could be perilous. In 1891 five passengers
were kidnapped and held to ransom, and the following year the train was
quarantined after cholera broke out on board.
In 1901 the brakes failed and the locomotive came to rest in
Frankfurt’s station restaurant, while three decades later Hungarian terrorists
caused a derailment that cost the lives of 20 passengers: cabaret singer
Josephine Baker helped tend to the injured.
Pensioned-off sleeping cars have been re-used as gazebos,
racing pigeon transporters and even a Limoges brothel. But the most famous was
the coach in which Germany signed the armistice with the Allies in November
1918. In June 1940 Hitler forced the French to sign their own surrender in the
same coach.
By the golden age of the Thirties there were several Orient
Expresses. The original route ran from Paris to Istanbul via Vienna. But Agatha
Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express is set on the Simplon Orient Express
(named after the Alpine tunnel) which ran via Venice and Belgrade, while Graham
Greene’s Stamboul Train is the Oostende Vienna Orient Express via Brussels and
Frankfurt. Another branch ran to Athens.
The original Orient Express operated until 2009, although
using modern rolling stock and only between Strasbourg and Vienna. It last
served Istanbul in 1977 and Paris in 2007.
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express was launched in 1982,
complete with expertly restored period coaches; it is now a legend in its own
right.
The Orient Express
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