The City of Lights is a destination for lovers, gourmands,
and—of course—the style savvy, but while there are numerous destinations for
women’s haute couture, it is harder to locate uniquely Parisian high-caliber bespoke
tailoring for men.
To help you navigate your way through the sartorial city, we
are spotlighting the three bespoke tailors you must visit the next time you are
in Paris. Though each address represents a unique identity and style, you will
discover that a common thread connects them all.
At 31 rue Marbeuf, the house of Cifonelli proudly stands as
one of Paris’s coveted places for bespoke suits for those in-the-know. The
address—not to be confused with Cifonelli’s rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré
flagship boutique—has been the company’s bespoke atelier since 1936, when,
after taking over his father’s tailoring business, the Italian-born Arturo
Cifonelli established the 8th-arrondissement shop. In the years following its
debut, the Paris tailoring house and its iconic Italian-English style garnered
a devoted following that included Cary Grant, Marcello Mastroianni, Fred
Astaire, and a number of other A-listers. Today, cousins Lorenzo and Massimo
Cifonelli continue the legacy as the fourth-generation heirs, growing the brand
globally while actively preserving its signature style (featuring a
distinguished forward-cut shoulder) and traditional techniques of tailoring.
Every bespoke Cifonelli suit (from about Euro 6.030 / $6,390) is handcrafted in-house by the
atelier’s 40 tailors. And, clients can expect to meet with one of the
Cifonellis for their consultation and fitting. (cifonelli.com)
In the 2nd arrondissement, another renowned bespoke
house—this one with both Italian and Catalan roots—quietly serves up
consistently polished sartorial style to its dedicated clientele. Officially
cofounded in 1969 by experienced tailors Mario de Luca and Joseph Camps
(ethnically Italian and Catalan, respectively), Camps de Luca helped redefine
Parisian menswear style throughout the late 20th century with its signature
suits. Distinctive features that have withstood the test of time include the
hand-stitched inside teardrop pocket and the iconic Camps de Luca “fish-mouth”
notch lapel, which features a deep, wide notch (much like Pac-Man’s mouth).
Now, with the de Luca family’s second and third generation tailors at its helm,
the house is still thriving thanks to its dedicatedly classic designs and
exceptional sartorial methods. At its 16 rue de la Paix workshop, at least five
tailors work on a single suit (priced from Euro 6.550 $6,920) for more than 60 hours
before delivering it to the client. (campsdeluca.com)
Back in the 8th arrondissement, at 44 rue François (just a
stone’s throw from Cifonelli’s workshop), the elegant bespoke atelier of
Francesco Smalto Haute Couture just might be Paris’s best-kept secret. Though
you might not recall the name, chances are you recognize the house’s signature
red carnation on the lapel. After being established in the 1960s by the brand’s
Italian namesake—a former head-cutter for Joseph Camps—the maison gained a
loyal fan base that has included French stars Jean-Paul Belmondo and Charles
Aznavour. While echoes of the late founder’s relationship with Camps can still
be traced in the signature Smalto suit—take the teardrop inside pocket, for
instance—Francesco’s unique method of craft-paper patternmaking has
consistently set the brand apart from others. Though the company has grown over
the decades to also offer a range of ready-to-wear men’s garments and
accessories, its bespoke suits (from about Euro 7.030 / $7,450) remain at its core and
endure, in a sense, as a symbol of timeless Parisian style. (smalto.com)
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