Just ask Christopher
Columbus, he bumped against these limestone landscapes in 1492 and
changed the course of history. But adventure didn’t end with the Niña, the Pinta and the Santa Maria.
From pirates to blockade dodgers to rum smugglers, wily go-getters have
converged and caroused on the country’s 700 islands and 2400 cays for
centuries.
So what’s in it for
travelers? There’s sailing to Abacos. Diving Andros' blue holes.
Kayaking the countless cays around Exumas. Lounging on Eleuthera's
beaches. Pondering pirates in Nassau. Indeed, there’s a Bahamian island
to match most every water-and-sand-based compulsion. Each of them framed
by a backdrop of gorgeous, mesmerizing blue.
But every adventure
has irritations, and here indifferent service, high prices and hungry
no-see-ums take the lead. Nassau and Paradise Island are the prime
troublemakers. But if casinos, Aquaventure and duty-free shopping don’t
top your to-do list, consider dropping off the grid for a bit in the Out
Islands. Prices remain high but there’s more bang for your Bahamian
buck, with friendlier service, fewer crowds and, well, the pesky
no-see-ums haven’t gotten the memo. But don’t wait long. Change is in
the air and the Out Islands are blipping onto the radar screens of
mega-developers and land grabbers the world over.
Life’s a little
snappier in the Exumas. Whether you’re kayaking, kiteboarding or
trimming a sail, a crisp palette of ocean blues sharpens every
adventure. And with 365 cays unspooling over more than 100 miles,
there’s a lot of adventure to go around. Wannabe Robinson Crusoes can
wander lonely isles in Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park.
Lifetime-to-do-listers can paddle shimmering Moriah Cay. Determined
bonefishers can track wily prey on glass-clear shallows. And that’s
without mentioning the gregarious yachtsmen who can mix their way to the
perfect on-deck cocktail during the festive Family Island Regatta.
Landlubbers have
distractions too, with the 62-mile Queen’s Hwy winding past historic
ruins, hidden beaches and convivial beach bars on Great Exuma and Little
Exuma, the two largest islands in the chain. In fact, the biggest
thrill in Exuma may be the hair-raising one-lane bridge that connects
them.
The launch pad for
exploring is George Town, the bustling administrative center of Great
Exuma that sits on the western shore of the sail-dotted blue waters of
Elizabeth Harbour. Bordering the harbor to the east is Stocking Island, a
sliver of land best known for its soft white sand and the infamous Chat
& Chill Sunday pig roast.
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